Good news, taco lovers! After two and half years, the beloved Calle Ocho mainstay, Taquerias El Mexicano, has reopened in Little Havana.
The historic Mexican restaurant came back to life on February 8 in a jubilant grand reopening celebrating its 39th year in Miami's Little Havana neighborhood. Loyal customers and tourists alike will be glad to find Taquerias El Mexicano's refreshed menu of authentic Mexican food and cocktails alongside a cheerful, welcoming atmosphere.
Taquerias El Mexicano's cozy, family-friendly feeling stems from its origin story. The historic restaurant was even recognized as New Times' best taco of 1999.
The restaurant was founded in 1985 by cousins Guillermo and Mario Martinez, who wanted to create an homage to the taquerias they grew up with in Chicago's predominantly Mexican Lower West Side neighborhood.
In 2017, Mad Room Hospitality, founded by co-owners Zack Bush, Ben Bush, Bill Fuller, and Darius Green, took over the spot, aiming to maintain the legacy built by the cousins. Mad Room Hospitality also owns Miami's iconic jazz and salsa club, Ball & Chain, another Little Havana staple that has been around since the 1930s.
Taquerias El Mexicano closed in 2021 due to the city's revocation of its certificate of use per a building code violation. Its reopening comes after a lawsuit Mad Room Hospitality filed against the City of Miami, claiming collusion, unnecessary raids, and harassment from city commissioner Joe Carollo. The lawsuit alleges an unlawful targeting by Carollo of Taquerias El Mexicano's owners, who backed Carollo's political opponent in 2017.
The case has not yet been settled, but Mad Room Hospitality recently acquired a permit from the city, allowing Taquerias El Mexicano to reopen.
Co-owner Zack Bush affirms, "The restaurant will continue to offer the food, drinks, and vibe it's become known for. To be able to carry on this incredible legacy is something we are proud of."
Entering the restaurant's dining room, the sense of legacy is apparent. The space is homey and unpretentious in its Mexican-infused decor and furnishings. The sombrero-themed overhead lights, wall of displayed spices, bright tapestries, and Banda songs crooning through the speakers all come together in a gentle celebration of Mexican culture.
Whether it's your first time walking in or you've been a lifelong regular, there is an undeniable feeling of homecoming. The servers are all smiles and feel personal in their interactions, creating a feeling of genuine community as they welcome back their long-awaited customers.
A Yelp review even says, "It is almost like walking into someone's house in a town in Mexico."
The food shines in its simplicity.
The chips, which is where we measure the authenticity of a Mexican restaurant (they're usually over-salted and thin), came out warm and thick, allowing the texture and freshness to confidently carry the delicious house salsa, mild yet packed with flavor. The delicious sauces adorning the assortment of tacos were also a highlight — chipotle aioli and cilantro cream, each adding just enough to accentuate the perfectly grilled shrimp underneath.
We ended the meal with the restaurant's Mexican flan; its coconut toppings proved the perfect buttery finish to a delicious authentic Mexican meal.
At one point, the manager came out to welcome us back into the space. His smile was ear to ear as we chatted. He asked if I'd come as a kid. I hadn't, but talking to him, embracing his warm delight at Taquerias El Mexicano's reopening, made me feel somehow like I had.
Los Altos, the restaurant's speakeasy and mezcal lounge situated just above the Taqueria, is set to reopen its doors in March.
Taquerias El Mexicano. 521 SW Eighth St., Miami; 305-456-5905; calleochotacos.com.