No one told Taquiza's Steve Santana to undertake the painstaking process of turning corn to masa to produce his own tortillas. No one demanded those tortillas be filled with the slightly spicy, charred poblano strips called rajas or the tangy corn fungus known as huitlacoche. Yet after stints with Jeremiah Bullfrog and at Giorgio Rapicavoli's Eating House, the computer programmer turned chef decided it had to be done. And thus, in 2014, Santana's little walk-up counter on Collins Avenue set a new standard for tacos in a city where tacos are a booming business. The South Beach stand is no more, but Taquiza on North Beach offers the same margaritas, made with care in virtually any flavor combination you can imagine. Craving yours with fresh coconut water, tamarind, and pineapple? Done! Want a strawberry-cilantro margarita? Your barkeep will muddle the fresh ingredients.